Elena Reygadas, who helms the kitchen at Rosetta restaurant in Mexico City, responded to our queries about what Mexican cuisine signifies for her.
A couple of months back, I scheduled a journey to Mexico City After exploring various parts of the Yucatán Peninsula, I looked forward to spending some time in an urban center. My desires included seeing skyscrapers up close, visiting multiple art galleries, attending a musical performance, and enjoying exquisite dining experiences. Among my must-do activities were taking a leisurely walk through Bosque de Chapultepec, visit Museo Soumaya , visit Luis Barragán’s Casa Pedregal, plan a day trip to Teotihuacán, and dine at chef Elena Reygadas’ acclaimed restaurant, Rosetta.
Luckily, I managed to book a spot for lunch at Rosetta. By 1 p.m. on a Thursday, after meandering around the trendy area of Roma Norte for several hours—exploring vintage stores and mentally marking down every café worth visiting during my trip—I eventually reached the restaurant. Although lunch service had only just started, a group had already assembled outside, waiting for potential cancellations that might free up a table.
The moment I entered via the massive wooden gates, I felt like I had been whisked away to an idyllic part of rural Italy. Inside, the patio featured delicate pastel hues and was decorated with tree and foliage frescoes. This blend of rustic charm and contemporary style created an ideal backdrop for enjoying a three-course feast rich in vivid colors and robust tastes.
Following her time at the Michelin-starred Italian eatery Locanda Locatelli in London, Reygadas went back toMexico City. 'It didn’t take long for me to realize that my true passion lies in cooking where I feel most rooted, utilizingthe local ingredients from my childhood,' she explains. Before founding Rosetta, which swiftly earnedinternational recognition, she initially ran an underground dining spot in the Roma district.
Rosetta offers an à la carte The menu updates with the seasons, featuring ingredients procured from local sources. The establishment serves Mexican dishes However, its flavors are strongly inspired by Italian cuisine. 'In London, where an extensive variety of foods are brought in from elsewhere, I gained insight into Mexico’s remarkable abundance of ingredients,' says Reygadas. 'At that point, I decided that upon my return, I would focus on using Mexican produce.'
Through Rosetta, Reygadas quickly earned acclaim nationally and globally. The eatery received a Michelin star in 2024, and She was awarded as the Best Female Chef. According to The World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2023, 'Initially, my cooking might not appear to be traditional Mexican fare, yet upon closer inspection, you’ll discover that Mexico encompasses far more than meets the eye,' she shares. 'I find great joy in contributing as one among numerous chefs who broaden the horizons of our culinary world.'
You learned from an Italian chef. In what ways has this shaped your cooking style now?
Elena Reygadas states, "The impact is evident. I have come to appreciate pasta—the process of preparing it as well as enjoying it. There’s an element of hands-on comfort involved. At Locanda Locatelli, I discovered that what truly matters in cooking is the ingredients themselves. One must honor their natural state and simplicity, choose only the finest ones, and utilize them during their peak season."
Pasta forms the backbone of my culinary style—my fascination stems from seeing it as more than just a side; its taste transforms slightly with different shapes and sizes, making it remarkably adaptable, and it consistently offers solace when consumed.
At Rosetta, we produce our pasta each morning from scratch, crafted entirely by hand and free from electrical machinery assistance. This approach ensures both superior quality and unparalleled freshness, despite being an intensive and lengthy process—it’s fundamental to us. Moreover, adhering to this method aligns with our commitment to making all items in-house and upholding exceptional standards.
What primarily sets apart the strengths of Mexican cuisine and its cooking customs?
The robustness of Mexican food stems from its variety, influences, and blends. Various types of Mexican culinary styles exist, all closely tied to regional landscapes, weather patterns, historical events, and traditional customs.
What associations does Mexican food bring up for you?
'Membership and hearth. Numerous events occur surrounding the activity of dining, at the tabletop. Throughout the day, thoughts revolve around sustenance. As we sit down for supper, our minds are already contemplating tomorrow’s first meal. Nutrition propels us and directs us.'
What ingredient do you enjoy cooking with the most and what makes it special for you?
My go-to ingredient is invariably the one that’s currently in season. The anticipation of waiting several months before being able to use an ingredient until it becomes available again is unparalleled. As soon as the climate shifts and following the rainy spells, we begin receiving quelites, mushrooms, and insects. With warmer temperatures, the initial batch of mangoes comes into play during this time. Each ingredient possesses its own optimal window for consumption.
You obtain your ingredients from local sources and do so in an sustainable manner. What makes this practice significant for you?
The modern food production system significantly exacerbates today’s environmental challenges by encouraging a more uniform and detrimental eating pattern. This trend leads to severe cultural and ecological impacts, as traditional tastes and cooking practices vanish, and biodiversity drastically diminishes.
By opting for locally sourced and seasonal items, we can create meaningful change. It falls upon us as chefs to champion nutritious food choices that benefit not only ourselves but also the environment, fostering diversity and resisting dietary uniformity. Over recent years, we've established an extensive network encompassing numerous stakeholders such as small-scale producers, agriculturists, and fisherfolk across different parts of Mexico; communal and sustainable farming initiatives; apothecaries and cattle raisers; vintners and tequila artisans; honey gatherers and truffle hunters; dairy crafters, and coffee cultivators. Through this collaboration, we ensure better accessibility to superior produce for everybody. When we collectively commit to utilizing top-notch, thoughtfully cultivated goods, we ignite a movement. More individuals gain the chance to experience these materials in other dining venues and within their homes. Consequently, this initiative spreads nationwide.
What type of message do you aim to communicate with your cuisine?
Food serves as a potent connector. Enjoying a meal together is essentially an act of communication. Consuming another culture’s cuisine offers insight into their traditions. Even from childhood, I understood that dining involves communal sharing. Our family would frequently host big get-togethers involving cousins, uncles, and grandparents. At these events, food held significant importance—it acted as the glue binding everyone together, sparking conversations and interactions. We didn’t serve elaborate meals; instead, we enjoyed simple home-cooked dishes made by various members. The essence lay in coming together, with food merely providing the occasion for such reunions.
I really love cooking dishes that encourage engagement and dialogue. While food itself might convey a message, genuine communication occurs beyond the plate—through conversations, idea exchanges, maybe even sparking inspiration. This is why each meal I prepare is designed to be an excuse for people to share with one another.
