When I first tried Connemara Peat-Smoked Single Malt Irish Whiskey at Mary’s Tavern and Hardware Store In Dublin, I felt intrigued. The whiskey had a distinctive smokiness that set it apart from most Irish whiskeys I had tasted before. A few days later, out of curiosity regarding its peaty taste, which is often linked to Scottish whiskies, I impulsively bought a bottle at the airport’s duty-free store.
Irish whiskey with a smoky flavor was once commonplace but had largely vanished until 1996. That year, John Teeling from the Cooley Distillery reintroduced Connemara. His aim was to capture the Japanese highball market by offering a whiskey reminiscent of Caol Ila Scotch At the time, neither him nor his team was aware that they were drawing upon Ireland’s deep-rooted distilling heritage, bringing back a traditional taste profile that had started to wane during the early to middle part of the 1800s.
For adding smoky flavors to whiskey, producers allow barely to partially sprout prior to heating the grain over flames to halt further growth. In Scotland, whisky artisans dry these malted grains using peat, whereas their counterparts in Ireland historically opted for turf instead. The smoke derived from turf lends a particular taste because it comprises various decomposed plant materials sourced from landlocked locations—not like peat, which comes primarily from seaside zones.
Interested in getting the newest updates on whiskeys, special offers, and critiques? Subscribe to the Whiskey Wednesday bulletin.
In 1818, British engineer Daniel Wheeler Patented indirect kilning utilized hot air rather than open flames to cure grains. This process yielded lighter malts devoid of phenolic compounds that typically impart smokiness. Cities such as Dublin, Cork, and Belfast in Ireland could easily obtain English coal, making indirect kilning feasible. Consequently, residents of these urban areas grew fond of this purer flavor profile.
The smoky character endured in isolated regions where coal was harder to come by. Even as late as 1837, the Bushmills distillery in northern Ireland promoted its whiskey as having a "peat flavor." Although this smoky profile lasted for several more years, it gradually came to be linked more often with illegal still operations. poitín , a well-known Irish beverage, prior to the nation tightening restrictions on illicit distillation in the 1870s and 1880s.
Between the 1960s and the 1980s, Irish Distillers boosted Irish whiskey as velvety, pure, and refined, often advertising it as "Scotch minus the smokiness." The firm held sway over the Irish whiskey industry due to shutdowns and mergers, effectively monopolizing the market. It dominated the decreasing number of distilleries, reducing them from 28 in 1887 to merely two. Consequently, this led to a uniform taste profile for Irish whiskey, hampering creativity and new approaches.
In 1987, John Teeling altered the course by establishing the Cooley Distillery — the first new Irish distillery in one hundred years. Unlike many contemporary Irish whiskies, which typically undergo three rounds of distillation, Cooley chose not to do so, as they felt it removed an excessive amount of flavor. By the end of the '90s, the firm was looking for greater intensity and aimed to emulate the smokiness characteristic of Scottish whisky while also catering to the expanding Japanese market. They introduced a new Irish single malt called Connemara, inspired by the historical Conmacne Mara clan from County Galway. The range later grew with additions such as their core unaged variant, a twelve-year-old edition, and a high-proof bottling.
During a blind taste test, Connemara might easily be confused with a Scotch whisky. Although its smokiness sets it apart fromIslay whiskies known for their peaty flavors, it shares similarities with certain Highland Scotches. Underneath this smokey exterior, the spirit retains a mild, fruity, and honey-like character typical of numerous Irish whiskeys and delicate single malts from Scotland. Nonetheless, the smoked notes introduce an umami element that elevates the typically milder approach of Irish spirits.
In recent times, Irish companies have started producing their own smoky whiskies by employing Scottish peated malt, although some opt for locally sourced turf instead. In 2015, John Teeling’s offspring inaugurated their own distillery, named Teeling Whiskey Company, located in Dublin. Following this, they proceeded with the introduction of Blackpitts In 2021, Connemara released a triple-distilled smoked single malt whisky. This expression revived an old-fashioned taste profile, seamlessly connecting Ireland’s heritage with modern times. Due to its characteristics reminiscent of Scotch and its historical significance, it merits a spot on every whiskey enthusiast's collection.
Related: Top Irish Whiskey Drinks for St. Patrick’s Day
